Sister Sword of Desirable Mindfulness (fiberaddict) wrote,
Sister Sword of Desirable Mindfulness

Sewing a Dress, Part 2.5: Inserts stink!

:sigh: I was hoping to have a finished muslin to show you.....but no. The Lord knocked me a bit yesterday, telling me to only sew up *1* insert and, well, inset it instead of barreling on ahead. I'm glad - because somehow I managed to sew the insets together incorrectly. (It looks like I sewed the 2 fronts together, and the 2 backs. :sigh:) I managed to get the blasted thing in the space...and the dress was instantly TOO SMALL and there were ugly wrinkles all over the place.

So. I put it into time out while I had a good think about things. After dinner, I cut another set of insets out - this time I did 1 back and 1 front and pinned them together IMMEDIATELY, then did the other set (and promptly cut the front wrong-side up, because I am just that dingy. :big sigh:) Into time-out it went again. (I am honestly thinking about just trashing the pockets; sew the insets into the sides after I sew in the darts, and just run the side seam right down the center. I'm trying to do this *right*, though...but the thought has occurred to me that Hey! I don't need no stinking pockets in a dress! :lol: I will persevere, though - have I mentioned I am stubborn? Fabric will NOT get the better of me! Besides, I like my seam ripper, and I'm using a basting stitch which makes ripping FUN. :evil laugh:)

I wish someone had done a sew-along on this dress - but I can't find anything (it's Decades of Style #5002, if you're interested. Go ahead and look - maybe your Google-fu is better than mine.) The way they want you to do the sew the sides of the dress up, leaving the large holes. Then you sew the bottom pocket facing to the bottom of the diamond-ish shape (um. I need to work on that, I think - it looks OK, but not great.) Then you sew the front and back insets together, the front and back pockets together (both of the contrast fabric), sew the diamonds to the pockets, THEN you somehow wrangle the over-sized geometric Thing into the hole. And sew it - with the whole dress hanging off of your sewing machine table, pulling on the fabric. :bangs head: (Let's not discuss the "right-sides together, sew from marker to marker" bit, OK? Because at this point, the marks are gone/hidden by other stitching, and it's difficult to get the blasted things pinned together. I'm using Cat to hold the dress while I pin each side of the diamond, sew it, then go back and pin the OTHER side, because otherwise I get ugly wrinkles. Did I mention I love my seam ripper?)

And after all this, I still have to figure out how to FIT the thing to ME. I think the back problem will require a tuck, somewhere around the points of the diamonds...but we'll see. I'm not there yet. I'm also pretty sure I'll need to do a FBA - but maybe not. Right now, the bodice looks OK to my eyes....but that might be wishful thinking.

I will say that once this dress is fitted correctly, the other dress from Decades of Style that I want (the 1940's House Dress) will be a SNAP. No insets, so I should be able to trace the pattern, grading the hips like I did here, then make whatever changes I am doing now...and then slap together a muslin (I have learned my lesson with this dress - always do a muslin for a new pattern!), then slap together the dress. THIS dress should only take a couple of hours to assemble, once we (yes, WE - this is a cooperative effort here, guys! :lol:) get it to fit right - the actual sewing - except for the aforementioned insets - is pretty straight-forward and easy. (Don't mention hemming. Let me live in my bubble, OK? Besides, I just ordered a blind-hemming foot which should make this easy. Also don't mention the invisible zipper. I also ordered an invisible zipper foot....we won't discuss my issues with zippers right now. I found some online tutorials that made it look easy - which is why I ordered the foot. I have a regular zipper foot, but think I'll go with the recommended one. It's only money, right? And feet are cheaper than new machines...right? Right.)

Anyway.....that's where things are right now. I spent some time yesterday (during "time-out") inventorying the feet that came with the Rocketeer, and the feet that I already had (which won't fit, because they are short-shank feet, not slant-shank feet. :big sigh: - I have a TON of short-shank feet. H, are you interested? I can set you up with all sorts of cool feet......) and then I hit eBay (it's off-limits for now. I....well, I only ordered 3 feet. Plus the monogrammer the other day, and the buttonholer (oh, I also have a Singer short-shank buttonholer up for grabs, if anyone's interested. Perfect buttonholes, every time!). I think I'm good on feet and accessories for now. :lol: Once the dust settles, I'll start looking at Bernina feet for Herself's machine....THOSE are pricey! I probably won't trick hers out like I'm doing for the Rocketeer - but she does need some feet (I'm not sure what she has...guess I should check that out first, huh?)

Off to tackle the insets - wish me luck!

This entry was originally posted at Please comment there using OpenID.
Tags: 1950's, blather, dress, sewing

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